A Beginners Guide to Climbing Mt. St. Helens (2024)

Required versus recommended gear selections are based on a well-rounded approach to mountaineering on Mt. St. Helens that aims for theleast amount of risk and while maintaining minimal weight. You should always evaluate what gear to bring based on current conditions and your overall risk comfort level.

An improper clothing strategy on Mt. St. Helenscan mean at best –chilly bits;at worst – limb devouring frost bite. The wide range of temperature and precipitation should determine your clothing strategy on the day of the climb.

The best approach for Mt. St. Helensis the 3-layer system: Base-layer, mid-layer, shell. Do not wear cotton – All layers should be either synthetic, wool, or another breathable material.

Base-layer – Top and Bottom – This can best be definedas a long-sleeve compression shirt and synthetic leggings. Your base layer should allow for a great range of mobility, moisture wicking, fast-drying, and be ultra-warm.

Mid-layer – Top and Bottom – Also known as thesoft shell layer, this is the layer you should be able to climb in under ideal weather conditions. Similar to the base layer these itemsshould maintainoptimal breath-ability, heat/moisturedissipation, and retain adequate warmth. For example, this might be a fleece jacket and hiking pants.

Shell – Top and Bottom – This is the layer you put over everything else.While it may not provide much insulation, it’s primary purpose isto keep wind, rain, sleet, snow, ice, and any other undesirable elements away from your underlying layers. An affordable shell layer might be the Adidas Outdoor Wandertag jacket andO’Neill Hammer snow pants. A shell layer with more advanced, light-weight, protective materialsmight be the Arc’teryx Beta AR jacket and Mountain Hardware Torsun pants.

Insulation – (Winter only) – This is your deep cold layer and is typically only required for a winter climb. It comes in to play when conditionsstart getting chilly or you are not moving enough to maintain a comfortable body temperature. This is typically a down jacket (aka the puffy jacket). We personally like and have used the Black Diamond Cold Forge Parka and the Arc’teryx Thorium SV hoody.

Gloves / mittens – Durable gloves are recommended when climbing on exposed rock. When it’s colder we like to use a fleece glove or liner. In the winter these can be paired with a deep cold mitten. In most conditions you will find that your hands retain quite a bit of warmth with a decent fleece glove and that the mittens function asa great backup for when the wind picks up or the weather degrades. Why mittens? Because by not separating your fingers from one another in a traditional glove they stay warmer by sharing their heat.The REI fleece grip gloves paired with the basic cold weathermitten are a fantastic combination in most conditions. A similar combo is offered by Outdoor Research with their fleece gloves and Meteor mitts.

Hats – Fact: The majority of heat loss occurs through the top of your head. A wide-bill trucker hat may give you “bro” points, but it retains minimal heat. Beanies or other insulated head gear is the recommended choice.

Balaclava – Not to be confused with the Greek dessert (baklava), a balaclava is like a ski mask which protects the exposed parts of your face to the elements. You would be surprised at how much of animprovement even an inexpensive balaclava will makein cold or windy conditions.

Boots –A quality pair of boots can make or break a successful summit attempt. Considering the amount ofabuse that your feet will experience on this climb, selecting a boot that is both comfortable and supportiveis crucial. If you are packing crampons you will also need a boot which is compatible with your chosen style of crampons.

Socks – Arguably one of the most important selections behind boots. Your feet will be taking a beating during the climb and ensuring that they stay warm, dry and comfortable is a primary factor in having a successful summit. Long wool socks are highly recommended.

Eye protection– Depending on the wind speed, having a decent pair of ski goggles to protect your vision can help you focus on the path ahead. On clear, sunny days having a sturdy pair of sun glasses can prevent damages to your eyes and also prevent snow blindness in the winter.

Eat before, during, and after the climb. Load up on fats and proteins before the climb as these metabolize more slowly and will give you energy for a longer period.

During the climb snack every 20-30 minuteson high carbohydrate foods as these metabolize faster and give you quick bursts of energy. Eating at least one or two snacks per hour avoids large spikes in energyand helps maintain smooth, consistent energy levels. Keep in mind, roughly50-100 calories can be burned every 15 minutes depending on your base metabolic rate, speed, grade, and air temperature. In the winter, the bodywill burn additionalcalories just trying to stay warm. For a 9 hour climb that’s somewhere between 1800– 3600calories. That’s the equivalent of between 8 – 17 regular sized Snickers bars, which apparently you can buy in bulk.

It’s also important to be aware that your taste buds may change as you gain elevation. Furthermore, altitude sickness may actually suppress appetite. In other words, if you only sort of liked a foodat base elevation you’re probably not going to like it at high elevation. So bring foods that you know you’ll enjoy. I like sour gummy worms for high elevation expeditions.

After the climb, have a burger, sandwich or something high in fats and protein which helps muscles recover from lots of exercise. Remember your metabolism keeps going for an hour or two after you stop, so that’s the time to binge a little.

Science recommends 1 liter of water be consumed for every hour of high energy activity. For a south side climb that would be 8 – 12 liters (or 2 – 3 gallons), which is the equivalent of 27 – 40 pounds of weight on top of all the other gear you would be carrying.

Similar to food – we recommend the before/during/after strategy. Drink 2-4 liters of water a few hours before you start your climb to saturate your body and reach your muscles. For the actual climb, bring 2-4 liters of water to sip on constantly. While a bladder makes constant hydration easier, we recommend Survivor Filter collapsible canteensfor their light-weight and compact size when not full or CamelBak water bottles to avoid the scenario where your bladder hose freezes preventing you from drinking any water. If camping overnight, Camelbak bottles also offer a usable container for storing melted snow water. If you do use a bladder, blow water back into the bladder to help preventthe hose from freezingor purchase a hose insulating layer. Another option would beto have a hybrid water bottle and bladder system in case either method fails. After the climb, have a gallon of water waiting in the car to replenish your reserves.

Weather can change rapidly and white out conditions can descend on the mountain much quicker than you can climb down. Having and knowing how to use a map, compass, and altimeter can keep you on course.

Whether you’re climbing Monitor Ridge or Worm Flows it’s relatively straightforward to find your way to the summit. However, coming down can present a navigation challenge – especially in winter when there is fresh snow. Having a GPS with way points can help significantly.

Each climber should carry a medical kit from which they can dispense first aid to themselves or another climber, but you should never depend on another climber to be able to patch you up. Adventure Medical sells a great, light-weight kit that we bring on every outdoor trip.

In theory, you could climb Mt. St. Helensin the middle of the night during a full moon and not need a headlamp. However, all other times you will.

If you start early enough you will be in the dark, and you’ll want your hands free. A headlamp with fresh batteries is the best light source.

Gaiters coverthe vulnerable tops of your footwear to fully protect your feet and lower legs from the snow, water, dirt and rocks that have a way of sneaking into even the best boots. While not strictly required for Mt. St. Helensthey can come in handy on the mountain in deep snow or in sections with a lot of loose scree. Even a less expensive product like the Moutain Hardware High Gaiter offers superb protection in most conditions.

As we’ve lamented on other trips, trekking poles are extremely advantageous to have, especially on mountains. They do more than just provide stability. Trekking poles actually transfer loadaway from your legs. This is most noticeable on downhill sections where your knees are most likely to take a beating. An affordable pair of trekking poleswill do the trick, however if you’re feeling the need to go ultra-light Black Diamond makes a carbon fiber trekking pole. We like and have used both, but the Black Diamond product is mind-bendingly light and strong.

At elevation there is less atmosphere to protect your skin from the sun’s harmful radiation. Combine this with the reflective properties of snow and you can get a fairly severe sunburn without the proper protection. Having a strong sun screen (SPF 40+) or a hat that shades your neck, face, and ears can prevent this. It’s also easy to forget that your lips need protection too. Having lip balm with an SPF rating can go a long way to avoiding puffy, sun-burned lips. Wear sun glasses to protect your eyes as soon as the sun rises.

Most people will be carrying their cell phones whenthey climb so that they can snap photos of their adventure, but these devices can also serve as locators for lost climbers.In the days prior to wireless phone technology it was common to purchase or rent an avalanche transceiver or mountain locator unit (MLU) which could be used to locate a person in the event of an avalanche. More advanced devices like RECCO reflectors, PLBs, and SPOTS are now available which use GPS and two-way satellite communication to provide emergency personnel with more accurate information about your location.

Additional information about the advantages and disadvantages of these devices is available here.

Crampons allow you to grip into solid snow and ice providing stability and traction when you need it most.They are only truly needed when traction on ice and snow isrequired.

There are several types of crampons available on the market, but the key is matching the correct crampon binding system to your boot. In fact, REI has a great article describing how to choose the best crampons for your goals.

We highly recommend you pick your boot prior to selecting a crampon because at the end of the day a comfortable, supportive boot is preferable to ill-fitting footwear that you’ve attached some spikes to. One pairingthat we’ve had a lot of success with is the La Sportiva Trangoboot andGrivel G-12 new-matic crampons. Grivel’s new-matic system has a locking point in the rear and straps in the front to ensure a secure fit to this style of boot.

Acquiring and carrying an ice axe is easy, but knowing how to use it requires skill, familiarity and practice in the art of self arrest. Neither of Mt. St. Helens’ south side routes are technical so we recommend a straight (or slightly curved) handled axe.

When choosing the length of an axe, stand up straight and hold the axe by your side grasping its head between your fingers. The spike (bottom) of the axe should rest by your ankle. A longer axe might be nice as Mt. St. Helenssouth side is relatively low angle. A shorter axe will require you to bend over to place it, a tiring endeavor. Also, a shorter axe may seem lighter but the difference is usually only an ounce or two. If using a shorter axe or ice tool look into a trekking pole for the other hand.

Your ice axe may come with a leash. This is important in case you do go in to a fall and the ice axe leaves your hand. A leash keeps the ice axe attached to your person either on your wrist or climbing harness allowing you to reel it in and perform a self arrest.

While most people plan a climb of Mt. St. Helensas a day trip, it is possible to turn it into an overnight expedition by camping anywhere below the treeline.

Tent / Shelter – A four season tent is recommended, however in good weather conditions a three season tent will pass. Despite it’s weight, we recommend the ALPS Mountaineering Tasmanian 3-Person Tentfor it’s affordability while providing excellent protection on alpine terrain.

Sleeping Bag – A 0 – 20 degree bag will work under most conditions. The Marmot Sawtooth 15 degree sleeping bagis a great, lightweight bag which has proven to keep this climber warm on Mt. Shasta numerous times.

Sleeping Pad – Having an insulated sleeping pad is required in order to get your sleeping bag and body from being in contact with the snow and ice. Do not expect the tent floor to be sufficient thermal insulation even on a four season tent. The Therm-A-Rest ProLite sleeping paddoes the job of giving you that extra insulating layer.

Portable stoves are useful for cooking warm meals and boiling water, but are invaluable in “creating” water by melting snow. Jetboilmakes a great line of compact stove systems which we use on our trips.

Blue bags are provided for free at the climber check-in. They are used for solid waste disposal.

The primary reason for packing alight-weight shovel is to dig out other climbers in the event of an avalanche. If someone in your party gets buried you only have a matter of minutes to find and digthem out before chances of survival plummet dramatically.

The secondary reason is to be able to dig yourself a snow cave in the even that bad weather moves in suddenly and you find yourself trapped on the side of the mountain. Here is a greatreasonably priced, durable, light-weight, component shovel which we use.

A climbing helmet is not strictly required on Mt. St. Helens because there is less of a risk of less rock or ice breaking away above your head. The angle of the climbing slope is not as steep as Mt. Hood or Mt. Adams. But if you choose to wear one – your helmet should meet climbing certifications, meaning that it is rated for impact from above. Biking and ski helmets are not suitable substitutes as they are only rated for side impacts.

Avalanches are less of a risk on Mt. St. Helens than on other peaks in the area. But while snow safety and avalanche awareness can help reduce risk, climbers should carry specific items when the risk of an avalanche on Mt. St. Helens is high:

• Avalanche beacon– Each climber should be equipped with a beacon so that they can be discovered in the event of an avalanche. Many devices, like the Backcountry Access Tracker,act as both a transmitter and a receiver- also known as a transceiver.
• Avalanche probe – Similar in design to a trekking or tent pole, an avalanche probe is used to poke the snow to discover where a buried climber or object might be.
• Shovel – Carrying a light-weight utility shovel allows you to dig other climbers out if they become trapped in an avalanche. We like the Yukon Charlie sport utility shovelfor its compact, componentized-designed, durability and light weight.
• Avalanche backpack – Like a regular backpack except these contain airbags that, when triggered, inflates the airbags and helps you float on top of the avalanche to greatly reduce the probability of being buried.